Pan Roasted Double-Cut Lamb Chops with Harissa Chimichurri

I don't know how you shop, but I very rarely go to the store with a list.  I like to spend my time in food stores, browsing, reading, comparing, discovering...  Of course, it helps to have a food store close by that carries quality goods in a large variety.  So, most of the time I get a call from my wife halfway through my outing asking if I am anywhere near being close to checking out and coming home.  (Usually I am not!)  The intention of my preamble, here, is to explain how I decide what to cook.  Most of the time I'll see something at the store that pops out at me and I just have to purchase it, regardless of whether or not I have any idea how to cook it or use it.  That was the case with the beef short ribs last weekend.  They were calling my name from behind the chilled glass of the butcher station at Whole Foods.  This time around, it was the double-cut grass-fed New Zealand lamb chops.  They were too special to pass up!

I've cooked lamb chops before, mostly grilled them, but I wanted to do something different this time.  A couple weeks ago, Jenny and I attended a very terrible, very amateur wine and food pairing dinner at a local restaurant that is actually more of a bar, really.  The wines were pretty good and the company we were with was a lot of fun, but the only redeeming part of the meal was the little glob of chimichurri they plopped on top of the flat-iron steak they served.  I kept thinking to myself, this would be so good on lamb!  I'd had chimichurri before, probably better, but had never made any myself.  Argentinian pesto anyone?

After making the chimichurri, there were two things I realized.  One, you've got to use flat-leaf parsley.  I happened to have the curly kind in the fridge and decided it wasn't worth running out to the store just for the flat stuff.  Italian parsley just has a much more pungent flavor.  Second, the roasted garlic is good, but not traditional, and it wasn't quite garlicky enough for me.

Then, being adventurous, I wondered what chimichurri would taste like if I threw in a bit of harissa (a traditional pimento spread from northern Africa).  Result?  Wow!  I liked it!

By the way...my favorite olive oil is
pictured here.  Yes, that is its actual color!

So, on to the ingredients:

• lamb (any cut with a bone in it)
• 1 cup (packed tightly) flat-leaf parsley
• 5-6 cloves garlic (roasted or not)
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 3 tbsp. wine vinegar (any kind will do)
• 1 tbsp. red pepper flakes
• 1 tbsp. harissa
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
• starch as a side (rice, potatoes, yams, pasta... you choose)

How you cook it:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Prep the chimichurri - put everything besides the lamb and starch (duh...) in a blender, food processor, Magic Bullet (my best friend) (I know it sounds dirty!) and blend until smooth.  Do not refrigerate, it will thicken too much.

Season the chops with salt and pepper.  Coat the bottom of a thick, oven-proof skillet with olive oil and put it on med-high heat.  When the oil begins to shimmer and veins appear, sear the chops on all sides until nice and brown.  Get into the habit of letting the meat sit still.  That is, don't be a cowardly cook and fiddle with them, flipping them around a bunch because you constantly have to look to see if they are burning.  That was the hardest thing for me to learn!

When the chops are browned, place them in the center rack of the oven in the same pan you just used to sear them.  You may need to drain most of the oil and rendered fat from the pan before you do so, otherwise it will burn and smoke in the oven.  I keep a leftover can (from beans or tomatoes or whatever) in the freezer.  I pour grease and hot oil into it (in the sink) and then it hardens in the freezer.  When it gets full you can just toss it in the trash.  If you don't have an oven-proof pan, transfer the chops to some sort of pan or dish that can go in the oven.  Make sure that they are laying in the pan with the bone side down.

Roast the chops for 8-10 minutes (maybe less, maybe more depending on the thickness of your cuts of meat).  Now is when you can check often.  Don't be afraid to take them out and poke or squeeze them with your fingers.  Just make sure you use an oven mitt to remove the pan from the hot oven!  I have a few good burns on my right hand to prove how stupid I am when it comes to pan roasting.  

The closer to rare it is, the softer and more tender it is.  Well done meat is no longer springy, it feels stiff.  Please don't serve your meat cooked more than medium.  A good cut of meat cooked well-done is a tragedy and some chefs will even refuse to do it.  I've worked in a few kitchens like that.  Surest way to get spit in your food, ask for a filet well done...

Anyway, when you plate your chops, drizzle them with the chimichurri (or put it in a small blob on the side for your wife) (No, Megan, that was not a comment on the habits of women in general, it's just that Jenny likes to be able to control the amount of flavor).  I served mine with a side of buttered parmesan pasta.  Simple and always delicious.  You can't go wrong.

Pork Green Chile

In Colorado and New Mexico, this stuff is a condiment.  Not really, but they put it on everything!  What I wouldn't give for a giant breakfast burrito full of hash browns and eggs, bacon and cheese, and smothered with fiery hot pork green chile!  You can eat this alone in a bowl with cheese and warm tortillas.  You can put it on eggs, tamales, burgers, burritos, crepes, you name it, it'll be good.

Obviously, no one in New Jersey has any clue how ridiculously desperate I am for this stuff, so I've learned to make my own.  Everyone out west has their own version, here is mine.  The key is to roast the green chiles yourself, but in a pinch, you can buy them canned.

Here's what you need:

• 1 lb. pork (any cut will do, but I try and find something lean) (finely diced)
• 8-10 Anaheim chiles (Hatch chiles from Hatch, NM are preferable) 

• You can also use Cubanelle, but they don't taste so great.  Poblanos are good, but they are spicier like the Hatch.  Or, mix and match.  You can roast some Jalepenos, too, to make it spicier, or go crazy and try the Habaneros.  You'll have to play around till you figure out how spicy you want it.
• 8 cloves of garlic (less if you want) (finely diced)
• 1 large yellow onion (coarsely chopped)
• 1 15 oz. can of diced tomatoes (I use the salt free)
• 1 tbsp. mild red chile powder (not chili mix which has other ingredients, just plain chile powder)
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 4 cups chicken stock
• 3 tbsp. canola oil (any vegetable oil will do, really)
• salt to taste

How to do it:

First, you have to roast the green chiles.  I do it on the grill.  You can also do it over a gas stove, but it takes a lot of time and is really annoying.  If you don't have either of these options, best to just buy the canned green chiles.  It'll still be good.




Roast them over high flame until the skin is blackened and the chiles puff up then shrivel.






These chiles are mild, but some may still be a bit irritable. Make sure you wash your hands well after handling them and don't touch your eyes (or pick your nose)!






Under cold water, remove the stems, seeds and skin.  Don't worry of some of the skin won't come off.  NO big deal!  Coarsely chop the green chiles into about 1 inch pieces.

Next, heat the oil in a heavy pot and then add the pork along with the chile powder and cumin.  Fry the pork over high heat for only a few minutes until it has released a lot of its juices.  Remove it with a slotted spoon to a plate.  Put the onion and garlic in the pot and fry until the onions begin to soften.  Scrape the sides of the pot as you go, to loosen any brown bits.

Return the pork to the pot, add the green chiles, stir and fry for another minute or two.

Finally, add the can of diced tomatoes, juice and all, as well as the chicken stock.  Bring the pot to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 3-4 hours.  

The chile should thicken but still be a bit soupy. I like mine with grated cheddar cheese and crumbled tortilla chips.

Braised Short Ribs with Parmesan Risotto

As promised, here's the details of the short rib adventure.  First, never made these before and was stunned by the amount of fat they contain.  Man was this good!  Basically, they boil in fat and wine for five hours until they fall apart.  Can't get much better than that!

I can't claim an original thought in this recipe, (it's not mine) so I'm just going to provide the link: http://www.food52.com/recipes/9111_dan_barbers_braised_short_ribs

As an aside, food52.com is a fantastic website.  Definitely check it out!

Any nice, fatty piece of beef would have been delicious, too.  This is pot roast heaven!

The risotto is all me, though, and is really a simple thing to make, as long as you have a strong arm (you cannot stop stirring, no matter what!)  Maybe another day I'll post the recipe.

I didn't photograph any of the process, just the end result:

This was an absurdly good meal.  Really fantastic!

Chicken Sausage and Broccoli Rabe Penne

I've been trying to document more of my weeknight meals.  On the one hand, to prove that I am not such a total lush and, second, to provide some alternatives to the weekend meals which take a lot more time to prepare.  I was speaking with a friend at work the other day, and she asked what I'd be making this weekend.  I explained that I had several pounds of grass-fed beef short-ribs in the fridge that I was looking to fix up, but that I didn't know if I'd have the four or five hours it takes to make the damn things...  She laughed at me 'cause clearly she thought it ridiculous that anyone has that much time for cooking.  Well, as you can see, I think I've stepped beyond the hobby line and I'm moving into new territory...  I think, if you have fun doing it, and it tastes good when your done, then why not spend that kind of time?

Anyway, I'll let you in on how the ribs turned out in my next post, but for now:  a weeknight pasta dish.  I made this a couple weeks ago, but am just getting around to putting it up now.  It turned out quite nice.

Ingredients:

• 1 lb. whole wheat penne rigate
• 28 oz. strained tomatoes
• 3 tbsp. olive oil
• 2 cups broccoli rabe (also called rapini or broccolini) (coarsely chopped)
• 4 links sweet italian chicken sausage (sliced 1/2 in. thick)
• 4-5 cloves garlic (diced)
• 8 oz. shitake mushrooms (stems removed)
• 1 med. yellow onion (sliced in thin, half-rounds - see the pic above)
• 1 tbsp. red chile flakes
• parmesan cheese (to top before serving)

Method:

After prep, heat the oil in a heavy bottomed pan or pot.  When it begins to shimmer, add the onion and fry for 2-3 minutes.  Add the garlic and continue to fry for another 2 minutes or so.

Add the sausage, stir, and fry so that the sausage is browned and the onions become clear.  You can add the chile flakes too (if you like some spice like me) or skip it and keep it mild.

Mix in your broccoli and fry some more...until the broccoli is just starting to become tender (but still crunchy!)  Don't overcook the broccoli, it will become a mushy mess.   Taste it to check as you go...

Now add the shitake mushrooms.  These mushrooms are very delicate and will cook super-fast.  Stir them in and fry the whole mess for another minute or so, then you can add in the tomato sauce.

Stir well, bring to a bubbly boil, turn down the heat to low and simmer for five minutes.  (At this point, I actually added a little more olive oil, as you can see it floating in the sauce...)

Serve over the penne with freshly grated parmesan.  This feeds 4-6 people (depending on your idea of a serving) and tastes great for lunch the next day.

Ginger Miso Sea Bass

This is Jenny's absolute favorite fish.  I don't do a whole lot of frying of fish and I swear that an oversized toaster oven is the best tool for cooking a nice filet.  Sea bass is buttery and thick.  It has a robust, decadent flavor.  I love it, but I can't find any way to cook it that doesn't turn out Asian somehow.  Go figure.

Anyway, this is a fantastic marinade that is super simple and would taste great on almost any fish you want to try.

Ingredients:

• 1 lb. sea bass filet
• 1 tbsp yellow miso
• 1 tbsp soy sauce (I use reduced sodium.)
• 1 tbsp mirin (sweet rice wine for cooking)
• 1 tsp olive oil
• 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1-inch piece of fresh peeled ginger
• black sesame seeds (white will do too!)

Method:

Rinse and pat dry your fish.  Blend all ingredients in your blender, food processor, or magic bullet type contraption until smooth and creamy.  

Coat the fish and pop it in your oven (or toaster).  Cook at 350 degrees for 20-30 minutes.  

Keep a careful eye on the fish, this marinade can burn easily.  After about half the cooking time, sprinkle the fish with the sesame seeds and return to the oven.  

The fish is done when it puffs up, is golden and toasty brown, juices run clear, it separates easily with a fork, and takes little effort to remove the flesh from the skin.  You will love this.  Yum!

I served it with a simple salad of baby arugula, cherry tomatoes, kalamata olives, and shaved parmesan.  I prefer simple olive oil and vinegar and don't forget the fresh cracked black pepper.

I know, I know, Asian fish and Italian salad?  I'm not crazy, it's just what was in the fridge!  Truly a 45 minute, weeknight meal.  Mangia, mangia!

Horseradish Mustard Salmon and Grilled Shrimp Scampi

So, I was in the "Great State of Texas" this past week, visiting relatives.  (Really, that's what it's actually called when you are there!  No kidding!)  And, despite my imperative determination to eat nothing but Mexican and BBQ, I was happy to cook a few meals with the family.  I asked my sister and father what they thought of this little kitchen adventure I've got going here, and they both quite obviously smirked and rolled their eyes.  I guess the smuggled paprika was a little over the top for them.  I admit it, it is a little absurd.

But, they argued, what was I expecting them to do, considering they only have a simple H.E.B. at which to shop?  Unlike some hoity-toity snobs like me, who reside within walking distance of a Whole Foods Market, they had to make do...  (I spent some time at the local grocer and it was certainly a better resource than either of them made out!)

Plus, they continued, what you've put up is crazy stuff!  Who has the time for that kinda thing?  Obviously this is not what you eat during the weekday...  (I tried to explain that, in fact, it was weekend leftovers that fueled my wife and I for lunches during at least Monday and Tuesday, but to no avail, because they had already written me off.)

So, here's for you Cait and Dad!  A simple weekday meal.  Most times we skip the carbs and just do veggies and protein.  But some wild rice would be nice with this.

Horseradish Mustard Salmon

Ingredients:

• 1 piece of fresh salmon lightly covered in marinade

Marinade:

• 2-3 tbsp of brown mustard (not yellow) but it can be dijon.  Find something that says spicy brown...
• 1 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp horseradish
• 1 small pinch of salt
• 1/2 tsp dried dill

Cook it!  I did mine on high on the grill, skin side down, till it's crispy and the salmon is firm but not dry (maybe 15 minutes...).  Sometimes I pop it in the toaster oven on 375 for 20 minutes.  Serve with lemon wedges.

Tonight we also had collard greens.  Most people think of these southern veggies as having to be boiled forever with a bunch of pork and fat and onions and stuff, but they are really great, and really healthy, simply steamed.  I put a dollop of chicken stock in the water
to give them a little flavor, but they are bitter greens and should taste that way.

This is the buoillon I use.
I swear by it!
Watch out for MSG!

Grilled Shrimp Scampi



Alongside the salmon, I also grilled a little shrimp for lunch tomorrow.  This was your typical scampi marinade, minus any butter and wine:

• Olive oil to coat
• A big squeeze of lemon
• Fresh parsley
• A heavy shaking (coat it) of garlic powder (but fresh garlic is even better)
• A generous amount of red pepper flakes (mine are mild, so I use a lot)
• Salt to taste

*Of course you can add butter and dry white wine!  It'll be delicious!

Grill the little buggers over high heat maybe 3-4 minutes total.  You know they are done when they curl up tightly.  Don't be tempted to mess with them.  Turn them only once.  You can also pan fry them and even bake them.  Whatever works for you!  Great dinner, great lunch!  Great on pasta, tacos, sandwiches, salads, snack crackers, however you like.  Dig it!